singapore rabbits

the first week with a new rabbit in Singapore

updated 12 May 2026

bringing a rabbit home for the first time is exciting and slightly terrifying. you want to do everything right, you have read 14 articles, and now there is a small lop-eared creature looking at you suspiciously from a corner of your living room. the question is: what now?

this guide walks through the first 7 days with realistic, SG-specific notes.

before the rabbit arrives

if you have not yet picked up the rabbit, you have time to prepare. essentials:

  • enclosure set up in the chosen room (cool, quiet, away from kitchen)
  • litter box in one corner (the corner where the rabbit is most likely to choose; observe at the shelter or pet shop if possible)
  • hay rack stocked with fresh timothy hay
  • water bowl AND water bottle (let the rabbit choose which they prefer)
  • pellet food (use the SAME brand the rabbit was eating, do not switch immediately)
  • hide-out box (cardboard works)
  • carrier set near the enclosure so the rabbit recognises it as familiar

for the full setup, see HDB-friendly rabbit cages.

day 1: arrival

transport home:

  • secure carrier with hay-stuffed towel
  • moderate speed driving
  • light cloth covering the carrier
  • AC at moderate temperature, no direct vent on the rabbit

arrival:

  • place the carrier near the enclosure with door open
  • let the rabbit emerge on their own time (this may take 30 minutes to a few hours)
  • do not pick up, do not force out
  • offer fresh hay, water, and a small amount of pellets in the enclosure

the rest of day 1:

  • minimise handling
  • sit quietly in the room, doing something else, letting the rabbit observe you
  • do not introduce other family members (especially children or other pets) on day 1
  • expect the rabbit to hide for hours; this is normal

what to watch:

  • any urination or droppings (good signs)
  • any interest in hay or water (good signs)
  • excessive panting (heat stress; check AC and cooling immediately)
  • complete lethargy with no exploration (concerning if persistent past day 2)

day 2: cautious observation

most new rabbits will explore their enclosure on day 2.

morning:

  • check the litter box for droppings and urine; both should be present
  • offer fresh hay, water, and pellets at the normal feeding time
  • if droppings are absent, this is the first concerning sign; not yet emergency, but worth watching

during the day:

  • sit nearby occasionally
  • offer a hand near the enclosure (not reaching in) — let the rabbit sniff if they choose
  • do not try to pick up

evening:

  • repeat the feeding routine
  • continue minimal handling

signs of progress:

  • the rabbit explores the enclosure
  • eats hay and pellets in measurable quantities
  • produces droppings throughout the day
  • begins to flop or rest in relaxed postures (sign of trust)

day 3 to 4: tentative interaction

handling:

  • you can begin gentle interaction
  • sit at ground level near the enclosure
  • offer a piece of greens (one of the rabbit’s known foods, NOT a new green) from your hand
  • let them sniff and take it if they choose
  • if they refuse, try again later

enrichment:

  • a chew toy in the enclosure
  • a cardboard box hide-out (different from the main hide-out)
  • the rabbit should be eating and exploring more confidently

routine:

  • establish feeding times (morning and evening pellets, fresh greens with one of the meals, hay always available)
  • consistent times help the rabbit settle

day 5 to 7: first run-out time

if the rabbit is eating, pooping, and behaviourally engaged, you can introduce limited run-out time.

the first run-out:

  • close the door to the room the enclosure is in
  • ensure the room is rabbit-proofed (cables, plants, baseboards)
  • open the enclosure and step back
  • let the rabbit emerge on their own time
  • 30 minutes to 1 hour for the first session
  • watch for any signs of stress (frantic running, freezing)
  • have a treat or familiar food available to coax the rabbit back into the enclosure when needed

subsequent run-outs:

  • gradually extend duration over the following weeks
  • introduce more variety (different toys, slightly different layouts)
  • begin building toward the 3 to 4 hours daily run-out target

feeding in the first week

unchanged from prior owner’s routine:

  • same pellet brand
  • same hay if possible
  • same greens
  • introduce changes only AFTER week 1

daily quantities:

  • one tablespoon pellets per kg body weight per day, split into two meals
  • 1 to 2 cups greens per kg body weight per day
  • unlimited fresh hay

no new foods:

  • the first week is NOT the time to introduce new greens or treats
  • gut bacteria need time to adjust to environment changes
  • introducing a new green in the first week increases stasis risk

the vet visit

book the first vet visit for within two weeks of arrival. see our first vet visit checklist for SG rabbit owners.

things to bring to the appointment:

  • the rabbit in a secure carrier
  • the rabbit’s pellet brand and a sample of hay
  • any medical records from the previous owner
  • a list of questions
  • a stool sample if possible

introducing family members

children:

  • supervise all interactions
  • floor-level only; do not let children pick up the rabbit
  • gentle, slow approach
  • patient

other pets:

  • separate them for the first week
  • gradual scent introduction (swap blankets between rooms)
  • supervised visual introductions through gates or x-pens after a week
  • never leave alone with cats, dogs, or birds

visitors:

  • introduce one at a time
  • limit exposure for the first 2 weeks
  • the rabbit needs predictability to settle

warning signs in the first week

book a vet visit immediately if you see:

  • no eating for 12+ hours
  • no droppings or very few droppings for 12+ hours
  • hunched posture and lethargy
  • drooling
  • breathing difficulty
  • discharge from nose or eyes
  • scratching ears persistently (ear mites are common in pet shop rabbits)
  • head tilt

these are signs of significant issues that need professional attention.

the settling milestone

by day 7, a well-settling rabbit should:

  • eat hay, pellets, and greens consistently
  • produce normal droppings (round, dry, distinct pellets)
  • urinate normally
  • explore the enclosure freely
  • relax in flop or loaf postures
  • approach humans during interaction (or at least not flee)

if the rabbit is still hiding constantly and refusing food by day 7, talk to a vet.

emotional notes for new owners

three things SG new owners commonly worry about:

“the rabbit is not bonding with me yet”:

  • bonding takes weeks to months
  • the first week is about safety, not affection
  • love comes after trust; trust comes from consistency

“the rabbit is sleeping a lot”:

  • rabbits sleep 8 to 12 hours a day, often during the heat of the day
  • this is normal
  • watch for activity windows at dawn and dusk

“the rabbit is hiding constantly”:

  • normal for the first few days
  • hide-outs are essential; do not remove them
  • as the rabbit settles, hide-out use decreases naturally

what owners often get wrong

three patterns from SG owner forums:

  • forcing interaction in the first 48 hours: causes stress, extends the settling period
  • introducing new foods immediately: gut imbalance risk
  • not booking a vet visit early: pet shop rabbits often arrive with minor issues; early detection matters

community-sourced information here is not veterinary advice. for any health concern see a licensed SG exotic vet at /vets/.

community-sourced information, not veterinary advice. for medical issues, see a licensed SG exotic vet — start with our vet directory.

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