baby rabbit care in the first month, the SG owner's guide
baby rabbits (kits) ideally stay with their mother for 8 weeks. occasionally SG owners end up with orphaned kits — abandoned by the mother, found on rescue intake, or purchased prematurely from pet shops. this guide covers what realistic care looks like.
note: it’s not always possible to save very young kits. acceptance of that reality is part of the responsibility.
the developmental timeline
week 0-1 (newborn)
- pink, hairless, eyes closed
- around 30-60 grams birth weight
- mother visits to feed (twice daily typically)
- otherwise huddled in the nest
week 1-2
- fur growth begins
- gaining weight rapidly
- still feeding from mother
week 2-3
- eyes open around day 10-12
- ears begin to lift
- starting to wobble and walk
week 3-4
- moving around the nest
- starting to nibble at hay and pellets
- still nursing from mother
week 4-6
- exploring beyond the nest
- eating solid food in increasing amounts
- still nursing intermittently
week 6-8
- weaning naturally completes
- fully eating solid food
- approaching adult-like behaviour
week 8+
- ready to leave mother
- can be transitioned to new home (responsible breeders/rescues at 8 weeks)
SG-specific care concerns
if you’re caring for kits orphaned at any point:
week 0-2 orphans (no mother available)
this is the most fragile period. without specialist care, mortality is significant.
immediate steps:
- contact a SG rabbit rescue urgently (Bunny Wonderland, Stray Wabbit, HRSS, SPCA)
- if rescue can’t take them, call an exotic vet for advice
- arrange goat milk replacer formula (NOT cow’s milk — toxic to baby rabbits)
- maintain warmth: 28-30°C ambient, heat pad on low under part of the nest
- feed every 2-3 hours, day and night
realistic outcomes:
- with experienced rescue handling: about 30-50% survival
- with unprepared owners: significantly lower
- expect to lose some
week 2-4 orphans
- still need milk replacer
- introduce hay and pellets gradually
- 4-6 feedings per day
- monitor weight gain (should gain steadily)
week 4+ orphans
- transitioning to solid food
- 2-3 milk feedings per day initially, reducing
- monitor that solid food is being eaten
- ensure adequate water once eating solid food
milk replacer specifics
if you must feed a kit:
what to use:
- KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) plus heavy cream mixture
- specific recipes available from rescues — contact them for current best practice
- never cow’s milk
- never goat’s milk fresh from the goat (lacks rabbit-specific composition)
how to feed:
- 1ml syringe, no needle
- approach calmly
- feed in small amounts to avoid aspiration
- after feeding, gentle wipe of the kit’s anal area with a damp cloth to stimulate elimination (mother does this naturally)
how often:
- newborn (week 0-1): every 2-3 hours
- week 2-3: every 3-4 hours
- week 4+: 3-4 times daily reducing to 2-3
- weaning complete: stop milk gradually
the warmth question
baby rabbits are very temperature sensitive:
optimal temperature:
- newborns: 28-32°C
- 2-4 weeks: 26-30°C
- 4-8 weeks: 24-28°C
if your home is normally air conditioned at 22-24°C, baby rabbits need supplemental warmth (small heat pad on low, partially covering one end of the nest area so they can choose).
watch for:
- huddled together (cold)
- spread out (potentially overheated)
- vocalisation (often distress)
weight tracking
healthy kits gain steadily:
- newborn: 30-60 grams
- week 1: 70-100 grams
- week 2: 120-180 grams
- week 4: 250-350 grams
- week 8: 500-700 grams
(varies by breed; smaller breeds are at lower end, larger at higher end)
weigh daily for first 2 weeks, then every few days. weight loss for more than 2 days = urgent vet visit.
the social development
between weeks 4-8, kits learn:
- normal rabbit social behaviour
- how to interact with humans
- food selection and eating patterns
- elimination habits
raised together, kits learn from each other. raised alone, they may be less socially developed. if possible, ensure orphan kits have at least one rabbit companion (often a calm adult can serve as surrogate caregiver).
what to feed when
up to weaning (about 6-8 weeks):
- milk replacer as primary nutrition
- hay introduced from week 3-4
- water always available from week 4
- specialised alfalfa-based pellets from week 4-6 (high calcium appropriate for growing kits)
after weaning:
- transitioning to adult diet
- introduce variety of greens slowly
- maintain alfalfa pellets until 6 months (then transition to timothy)
- gradual diet expansion over months
our feeding guide covers adult transition.
red flags
contact vet/rescue urgently if:
- not eating in 12+ hours
- diarrhea or soft droppings
- vomiting (rabbits can’t vomit, but they can’t bring up gas either)
- lethargy or unresponsiveness
- weight loss in 24+ hours
- visible respiratory distress
the rescue option
most SG rabbit rescues will take orphaned kits if you can’t manage. don’t wait until the kit is critical — contact early. SG rescues:
experienced rescue mothers (or skilled human caretakers) have significantly higher kit survival rates than first-time owners.
what owners often get wrong
three patterns:
- buying kits under 8 weeks from pet shops. these are often too young. wait until 8+ weeks
- trying to bottle-feed without experience. aspiration pneumonia from incorrect technique is common and fatal. work with rescue if possible
- assuming “they look fine, no need to weigh.” subtle weight loss precedes serious decline. daily monitoring catches issues early
related reading
- feeding rabbits in Singapore’s climate — adult diet transition
- adopt vs buy — SG rescues vs breeders honestly compared — for source decisions
- first week with a new rabbit — once weaned and home
- our rescue directory — for emergency support
community-sourced information here is not veterinary advice. for kits in emergency, contact a SG rabbit rescue or exotic vet immediately.