singapore rabbits

baby rabbit care in the first month, the SG owner's guide

updated 13 May 2026

baby rabbits (kits) ideally stay with their mother for 8 weeks. occasionally SG owners end up with orphaned kits — abandoned by the mother, found on rescue intake, or purchased prematurely from pet shops. this guide covers what realistic care looks like.

note: it’s not always possible to save very young kits. acceptance of that reality is part of the responsibility.

the developmental timeline

week 0-1 (newborn)

  • pink, hairless, eyes closed
  • around 30-60 grams birth weight
  • mother visits to feed (twice daily typically)
  • otherwise huddled in the nest

week 1-2

  • fur growth begins
  • gaining weight rapidly
  • still feeding from mother

week 2-3

  • eyes open around day 10-12
  • ears begin to lift
  • starting to wobble and walk

week 3-4

  • moving around the nest
  • starting to nibble at hay and pellets
  • still nursing from mother

week 4-6

  • exploring beyond the nest
  • eating solid food in increasing amounts
  • still nursing intermittently

week 6-8

  • weaning naturally completes
  • fully eating solid food
  • approaching adult-like behaviour

week 8+

  • ready to leave mother
  • can be transitioned to new home (responsible breeders/rescues at 8 weeks)

SG-specific care concerns

if you’re caring for kits orphaned at any point:

week 0-2 orphans (no mother available)

this is the most fragile period. without specialist care, mortality is significant.

immediate steps:

  • contact a SG rabbit rescue urgently (Bunny Wonderland, Stray Wabbit, HRSS, SPCA)
  • if rescue can’t take them, call an exotic vet for advice
  • arrange goat milk replacer formula (NOT cow’s milk — toxic to baby rabbits)
  • maintain warmth: 28-30°C ambient, heat pad on low under part of the nest
  • feed every 2-3 hours, day and night

realistic outcomes:

  • with experienced rescue handling: about 30-50% survival
  • with unprepared owners: significantly lower
  • expect to lose some

week 2-4 orphans

  • still need milk replacer
  • introduce hay and pellets gradually
  • 4-6 feedings per day
  • monitor weight gain (should gain steadily)

week 4+ orphans

  • transitioning to solid food
  • 2-3 milk feedings per day initially, reducing
  • monitor that solid food is being eaten
  • ensure adequate water once eating solid food

milk replacer specifics

if you must feed a kit:

what to use:

  • KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) plus heavy cream mixture
  • specific recipes available from rescues — contact them for current best practice
  • never cow’s milk
  • never goat’s milk fresh from the goat (lacks rabbit-specific composition)

how to feed:

  • 1ml syringe, no needle
  • approach calmly
  • feed in small amounts to avoid aspiration
  • after feeding, gentle wipe of the kit’s anal area with a damp cloth to stimulate elimination (mother does this naturally)

how often:

  • newborn (week 0-1): every 2-3 hours
  • week 2-3: every 3-4 hours
  • week 4+: 3-4 times daily reducing to 2-3
  • weaning complete: stop milk gradually

the warmth question

baby rabbits are very temperature sensitive:

optimal temperature:

  • newborns: 28-32°C
  • 2-4 weeks: 26-30°C
  • 4-8 weeks: 24-28°C

if your home is normally air conditioned at 22-24°C, baby rabbits need supplemental warmth (small heat pad on low, partially covering one end of the nest area so they can choose).

watch for:

  • huddled together (cold)
  • spread out (potentially overheated)
  • vocalisation (often distress)

weight tracking

healthy kits gain steadily:

  • newborn: 30-60 grams
  • week 1: 70-100 grams
  • week 2: 120-180 grams
  • week 4: 250-350 grams
  • week 8: 500-700 grams

(varies by breed; smaller breeds are at lower end, larger at higher end)

weigh daily for first 2 weeks, then every few days. weight loss for more than 2 days = urgent vet visit.

the social development

between weeks 4-8, kits learn:

  • normal rabbit social behaviour
  • how to interact with humans
  • food selection and eating patterns
  • elimination habits

raised together, kits learn from each other. raised alone, they may be less socially developed. if possible, ensure orphan kits have at least one rabbit companion (often a calm adult can serve as surrogate caregiver).

what to feed when

up to weaning (about 6-8 weeks):

  • milk replacer as primary nutrition
  • hay introduced from week 3-4
  • water always available from week 4
  • specialised alfalfa-based pellets from week 4-6 (high calcium appropriate for growing kits)

after weaning:

  • transitioning to adult diet
  • introduce variety of greens slowly
  • maintain alfalfa pellets until 6 months (then transition to timothy)
  • gradual diet expansion over months

our feeding guide covers adult transition.

red flags

contact vet/rescue urgently if:

  • not eating in 12+ hours
  • diarrhea or soft droppings
  • vomiting (rabbits can’t vomit, but they can’t bring up gas either)
  • lethargy or unresponsiveness
  • weight loss in 24+ hours
  • visible respiratory distress

the rescue option

most SG rabbit rescues will take orphaned kits if you can’t manage. don’t wait until the kit is critical — contact early. SG rescues:

experienced rescue mothers (or skilled human caretakers) have significantly higher kit survival rates than first-time owners.

what owners often get wrong

three patterns:

  • buying kits under 8 weeks from pet shops. these are often too young. wait until 8+ weeks
  • trying to bottle-feed without experience. aspiration pneumonia from incorrect technique is common and fatal. work with rescue if possible
  • assuming “they look fine, no need to weigh.” subtle weight loss precedes serious decline. daily monitoring catches issues early

community-sourced information here is not veterinary advice. for kits in emergency, contact a SG rabbit rescue or exotic vet immediately.

community-sourced information, not veterinary advice. for medical issues, see a licensed SG exotic vet — start with our vet directory.

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